The BBC recently gained rare access to Diego Garcia, a remote island in the Indian Ocean known for its lush vegetation and white-sand beaches, surrounded by crystal blue waters. Despite its paradise-like appearance, Diego Garcia is strictly off-limits to most civilians, as it houses a highly secretive UK-US military base that has been shrouded in mystery for decades.
Administered from London, Diego Garcia is at the center of a territorial dispute between the UK and Mauritius, with negotiations intensifying in recent weeks. The BBC’s visit to the island was prompted by a historic court case involving the treatment of Sri Lankan Tamils who have been stranded on the island for three years, the first people to file asylum claims there. Legal battles over their fate are ongoing, with a judgment expected to determine if their detention was unlawful.
Despite facing numerous challenges and restrictions, the BBC was able to observe key details on the island, shedding light on one of the most restricted locations in the world. Diego Garcia, part of the Chagos Archipelago, is home to a UK-US military base established in the early 1970s, with agreements leasing the island to the US until 2036.
US and UK influences are evident on the island, with British and American symbols and facilities coexisting. From British police cars to American-style food and currency, Diego Garcia reflects the unique partnership between the two countries in maintaining the military base. While the territory is administered from London, the majority of personnel and resources on the island are under US control. When the US prevented a court hearing from taking place on Diego Garcia this summer, a senior official at the Ministry of Defence stated that the UK lacked the ability to grant access. The US security assessment, which is classified, was cited as the reason for the blockage, with strict controls in place. The acting commissioner of Biot also mentioned the inability to compel US authorities to grant access to the military facility, despite it being a British territory.
Recent communications obtained by the BBC revealed that the UK has been incurring significant costs related to Diego Garcia, especially migrant costs, totaling tens of millions of pounds annually. The island itself exudes a relaxed atmosphere, with various recreational activities available, such as tennis and windsurfing.
Despite its secretive nature, Diego Garcia offers amenities such as a cinema, bowling alley, and gift shop, reflecting a mix of military presence and leisure activities. The island’s natural beauty, marine biodiversity, and historical context are also highlighted, including its brutal past involving the forced eviction of residents to make way for the military base.
The geopolitical significance of Diego Garcia, its strategic location, and the controversial history of its acquisition by the UK and US are detailed in various documents and accounts. The island continues to be a point of interest for military operations and international relations, with ongoing scrutiny from both US and British military officials. Chagossians from the BBC have recounted being forced onto cargo ships and transported to either Mauritius or the Seychelles. Some Chagossians were granted UK citizenship in 2002, leading many to relocate to the UK. Testimony from Chagossian Liseby Elysé shared at the International Court of Justice revealed a once content life on the archipelago before being abruptly uprooted without explanation.
The Chagossians have been advocating for years to return to their homeland, as Mauritius claims the islands as its own and the United Nations has deemed the UK’s administration of the territory as “unlawful”. Clive Baldwin, a legal adviser at Human Rights Watch, has labeled the forced displacement of the Chagossians as crimes against humanity.
The UK government has maintained its claim over the islands but has recently entered negotiations with Mauritius regarding the future of the territory. The Diego Garcia military base, located on one of the islands, plays a crucial role in global operations, serving as a strategic hub for military activities in the Indian Ocean region. Speculation surrounding the base, including its alleged use as a CIA black-site, has stirred controversy and secrecy. BBC “Estas eran operaciones de entrega, nada más”, dijo, mientras negaba informes de que la CIA tenía una instalación de detención en Diego García. Años más tarde, Lawrence Wilkerson, jefe de gabinete del ex Secretario de Estado de EE. UU. Colin Powell, dijo a Vice News que fuentes de inteligencia le habían dicho que Diego García se había utilizado como un sitio “donde la gente era alojada e interrogada temporalmente de vez en cuando”. Imágenes de Getty. Un bombardero de la Fuerza Aérea de EE. UU. despega de Diego García, rumbo a Afganistán, en octubre de 2001. No se me permitió acercarme a ninguna de las áreas militares sensibles de Diego García. Después de dejar mi alojamiento en la isla por última vez, recibí un correo electrónico agradeciéndome por mi reciente estancia y pidiendo retroalimentación. “Queremos que cada huésped experimente nada menos que una experiencia acogedora y cómoda”, decía. Antes de volar, mi pasaporte fue sellado con el escudo de armas del territorio. Su lema dice: “In tutela nostra Limuria”, que significa “Limuria está bajo nuestra responsabilidad”, una referencia a un continente perdido mítico en el Océano Índico. Un continente que no existe parece ser un símbolo adecuado para una isla cuyo estatus legal está en duda y que pocos, desde que los chagosianos fueron expulsados, han podido ver. En el caso judicial sobre el trato a los tamiles de Sri Lanka en la isla, se espera pronto la sentencia y la BBC informará al respecto en su debido momento.